Shadows of History

After 2000 years of struggles for freedom, Hungary has retained her sense of East meets West with hospitable charm and old-world elegance.
Story and photos by Doug Eads

Budapest, Hungary - "Pearl of the Danube" - Budapest's incomparable beauty prompted UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) to place it on the World Heritage list. There are those who fall in Jove with Budapest at first sight - others who become devotees of the city only after a longer acquaintance. One thing most visitors agree on - this is one of the most beautifully situated cities in the world.

HISTORY SEEKING LIBERTY

"The pioneers of Liberty,
Invincible, they mass;
They scale and undermine
the towers
And battlements of Wrong. Speak! Sages, Poets, Patriots,
speak!
And the dark pile shall fall..."

Anne Lynch, poet
from Nightfall in Hungary, 1852

Through occupation after occupation, the souls of Hungary sought liberty and independence from those who would deny it: Mongols, Turks, Germans, and the Soviets. Today Hungary is within grasp of an invitation to join the European Economic Community. The passion to be a successful democracy is evident today, and the desire to form and retain an identity long denied burns brightly.

With over 2000 years of struggle to become the rising independent democracy it is today, Hungary has retained her sense of East meets West with hospitable charm and old-world elegance.

BUDAPEST - Approaching three million people in her metropolitanarea, Budapest offers the new, the old, and that which is currently being restored and recovered from the ages. Budapest and Prague are often used in filming for Hollywood for they retain so much of the type of architecture that is the grand pristine Europe.

Over 11 years ago the last vestiges of Soviet influenceand controls left Hungary, as the collapse of the Soviet infrastructure collided with destiny. Democratic ideals were not born anew in Hungary, but were realized in a Hungary that was always free at heart, and now free at last to choose her own destiny. "

The Millennium Monument and Grand Raza are at the end of wide and impressive Andrassy Boulevard. On each side of the monument are ornate Greek style buildings, a museum on one side and an exhibition hall on the other. You can see the exhibition hall in this photo.

Budapest, once two cities, Buda and Pest, boasts some of the most masterful architecture in Europe. The quickly emerging former Soviet-Bloc nation now wants her distance from those memories, and eat a her own recognition for what she is - lovely, free, welcoming and proud. Locals still refer to Buda and Pest as separate areas. You can easily see why this is common, for the grand Danube separates Buda from Pest.

With the Danube River as its pulse, Hungary's capital, Budapest, beats to a rhythm of a strong spirit cloaked in beauty and charm. And no wonder, for the Hungarian capital is exquisitely laid out on both sides of the Danube, claiming one of the most spectacular panoramic views in all of Europe. On the Buda side of the river you can bear witness to the city's beauty from the world-renowned Castle Hill

ARRIVAL - Going to Europe we changed planes in the Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport in one of the less clean and less organized of its terminal buildings, thus we were completely surprised when we arrived at the Ferihegy Airport in Budapest. It was immaculate - one of those places you could see your reflection in the floors. It was organized and simple to navigate.

NEW FRIENDS - Over two years ago I began communicating with a travel and tour organizing professional in Budapest. We were to fly there for a river cruise, and I wanted to get tips and familiarize myself with hotels, and what to do. That trip did not work out, but we kept our lines of communication open.

Otto Rona, and I capped off a long distance friendship this July over breakfast at the Andrassy Hotel in Budapest. Otto had arranged a driver for us, at only $8 higher than it would have cost three of us to utilize the city hotel shuttle. We did not feel like saving the $8 after many hours flying. The fee was a bargain as it turns out, as the airport was perhaps 45 minutes, with traffic, from where we were staying.

Otto had placed us at the Andrassy Hotel in the lovely diplomatic district. We were surrounded by embassy compounds and the impressive Andrassy Blvd. heading quickly and directly to the Millennium Monument and Heroes Square, with the massive City Park behind that.

The Andrassy Hotel was exactly what we needed to feel at home in a new destination after a long journey. From our balcony we could see the Japanese Embassy and Andrassy Blvd. The hotel had its own dining, and close at hand were several highly rated restaurants, like the Budapest Premier.

THE TOUR - Otto Rona had lived in the U.S. for about a year when he was younger. "I was broke, but young and wanted adventure ... I

The Hungarian Parliament is nearly a thousand feet of stunning architecture and a blend of Gothic and Baroque styles sitting on the Danube -you won't believe how majestic it is!
had a lot of fun and learned a lot," Otto said at breakfast after our flight recovery rest. Otto told us about the new house he had built in the Budapest outskirts, and of his family. "My youngest, Jeff Rona, graduated from Case Western University as an accountant. My eldest, Ken Rona, received his PhD from Duke University" and you could see the pride radiating from Otto ... "Here I am just a middle aged Hungarian ... but I have these two successful kids." he said with a wry smile and the pride of a father.

We left Otto and headed out with his tour hostess Judit Vajda, a language teacher, who does multiple part time jobs. Her education, national pride, and prolific knowledge of her homeland made for an informative day... Judit radiated an infectious nationalism that made us also proud that Hungary had found her way after so many struggles to freedom.
We chose the main traditional highlight tour; the main attractions of the Buda side of the Danube, the Pest side, and the lovely connecting bridges. First to the Grand Plaza with the Millennium Monument and Heroes Square. Two breathtaking Greek style buildings that are now museums our enthusiasm. This mammoth park houses a 19th century castle, zoological gardens, spas, walking, a museum, biking, and picnic areas. It is just too huge to do in a day by walking alone. Did I forget the amusement park area ... oh my!

From here we crossed the world famous Chain Bridge to the Buda side of the river where you find Castle Hill Park and the historic area. You will find ancient ruins, and a multitude of 800 year old historic buildings. From the hill you have a perfect vista of the Danube, Parliament, and the Palace, which are very impressive world-class architectural treasures. It is so lovely it must be a Hollywood set ... no, it is Budapest.

The Hungarian Parliament is nearly a thousand feet of stunning architecture and a blend of Gothic and Baroque styles sitting on the Danube -you won't believe how majestic it is! If possible see Budapest's architectural treasures again by nighttime illumination ... spectacular!

DON'T MISS - Matthias Cathedral gives a Gothic impression, but is crowned with the delicate Zsolnay multi-colored tiles giving the church a Moorish look. Many places in Budapest lend a Gothic, Moorish-Byzantine West ambience. Nearby on Castle Hill is the ornate Fisherman's Bastion. From Castle Hill are magnificent unforgettable views of Budapest and the Danube.

After the view, a stroll to the shops, the plaza on Castle Hill, we made a brief tour of the Hilton Hotel. It is renowned for intertwining ancient Gothic and Baroque historic remnants into its present day hotel complex. You feel history intertwined with every turn.

The metamorphic transformation of Budapest seems ongoing as she emerges from centuries of one hostile occupation after another ... but you turn a corner and you are impressed again and again.

When planning a European vacation consider Budapest as your Eastern point to begin or end your European exploration.
Traveling west by the clean efficient Eurail Pass as we did, you get a savoury taste of the cultural patchwork that makes European nations so pleasant to visit. You gradually see each area and nation evolve its own brand of architecture, neighborhood styles, and you see and feel the common thread that binds us all ... Our pride, history, and our humanity.

Sunnyside Weekly, Indiana, USA